Wednesday, August 26, 2009

French Wine...at nine

By S Preet Kaur
photos - S Preet Kaur

Pampered pigeons walk beside you as you walk through streets of Paris. They usually do not prefer to fly as they eye on the food in countless restaurants and cafes near pavements. It is no wonder that you would want to splotch down in one of the restaurants, grab a glass of French wine or coffee and bask in the sunshine glory. Its time to explore one of the world’s historically important, architecturally beautiful, romantic and most fabled cities of the world- Paris.

Best way to discover Paris is by walking. The city is friendly to pedestrians and cyclists. Not for a minute will you take your eyes off the buildings. As you will walk on the pavements you will see thousands of restaurants with Parisians making most of the sun.

One place that remains all charged up till wee hours is Bastilles, situated near banks of River Siene. It is unlike any other place in Paris. It is the place for French Revolution(1789-99) and establishment of Democracy. With this fall of monarchy came the three words that led to foundation of modern politics- Liberty, Equality and Fraternity. To know more about the city, take boat ride from Bastilles that shows you all of Paris from River Siene and tells you the history behind all that you can see. Enjoy the meal and the sight on the boat ride, as your guide introduces you to the city of love. There are boat parties every night. Many Parisians infact have spent their entire life on the small boats they have bought. The boats remain anchored on the banks. They do not have to pay property tax as they live on water!

Walking on the banks of river Seine

River Seine deserves a full day. Seine banks are always full of people - couples, painters, musicians, friends, families and of course tourists who are in love with the place. The river has many bridges, each having a history of its own. If you love photography, you will love the river. Friends and family come to picnic here. People across all ages do Salsa, Jazz, Ball dance at nights. Do sit in the crowds and who knows, some body might just ask for your hand!
If you are hungry, the restaurants are not far away.

The food will usually start from 5-6 Euros (Rs 350) for stuffed baguettes (long breads). You might just develop a paunch after surrendering to those delicious crispy deserts and pies. The budget for a good filling meal will go beyond 8 Euros. If money is a limiting factor or if you had the craving for your junk food, you have Mc Donald’s and its French brother Quick and other take away shops.


Do taste the roadside pancakes. My pick- simple sucre (sugar) pancakes. Must on the menu are their delicacies like Escargots (snails), Oysters, Duck and regulars like salads and French cheese. I can never say no to Escargots(in the picture). They are simply amazing. The waiter explained to me how Escargots are made. Boiled and then cooked in olive oil, butter, Parmesan and garlic, they are extremely easy to make. This one was surely out of the world.

Well one thing that I noticed during my trip is that you might not always be lucky with your waiters. Some will end up telling you in detail about the dish you are having, while some will surely shock you. A lot depends on their mood and temperament. You do them no favor by eating at their restaurant –they are not desperately waiting to be tipped.

Seeing Typical Paris

Montmarte is a hill in North of Paris. Montmartre is primarily known for the white-domed church. It is perhaps the oldest part of the city and has been able to preserve some fragrance of typical Paris. Musicians playing near the Church, people getting their sketches drawn by artists on easels and of course Moulin Rouge- it is typical Paris, yet hard to describe.

Subtly Fashionable

Paris is known as the Fashion capital of the world. But surprisingly, here fashion is actually about simplicity and attitude and not overdoing it. Men and women dress and carry themselves well. But they do sacrifice comfort by donning heels- many walk with their legs shaking.

Trip to Paris and then the obvious move the Eiffel , Louvre and Notre Dame.

Notre Dame, built in twelfth century, is probably the most famous cathedral in the world. It is in this church that coronations of most of the kings used to take place. The Musée du Louvre or officially Louvre Museum - national museum of France the most visited museum in the world, and a historic monument. It used to be the palace of the royals. The paintings and carvings on the ceilings are breathtaking. The palace is home to Mona Lisa by Italian artist Leonardo Da Vinci. The collection began with French King Francis, who acquired works from Italian masters such as Raphael and Michelangelo, and brought Leonardo Da Vinci to his court. It also has the famous Hammurabi Code of Law. Photography is allowed. It has well preserved crowns and swords of French kings. The authorities have also maintained fully furnished apartments of Napoleon III.

Eiffel – Finally

Eiffel is an iron tower built during 1887-1889 and named after its designer, engineer Gustave Eiffel .It is the tallest building in the city. You can go to the top of Eiffel in 10 Euros and stay there for as much time as you want. Well it is very common in Paris to propose your loved one on top of the Eiffel and make him / her feel on the top of the world. On the first floor you have a restaurant for which reservations have to be made months before. On top of the tower you have personal room of Gustave where he had meetings with Thomas Edison. I grabbed a cup of coffee (you also have the option of wine) and set my camera to record the sunset. The sun has a unique way of calling it a day if seen from the top of the Eiffel. The tints, shades and hues of yellow, red and orange are splashed over the canvas of the sky. Eiffel tower seems to have no challenges from any of buildings in the city. Even the buildings at La Defense in suburbs of Paris that is one of the largest business centers in the world and the only place in the city where you will find sky scrapers, also seem to give way to the Eiffel.

What is surprising is that though the city is one of the most developed and visited places; it is not that tourist friendly. Most of the preserved artifacts at Louvre have markings in French. You will have to pay another 6 euros to have a recorder to explain all in English. “I actually regret not knowing French. The same is the case at Napoleon burial. Thankfully I have a friend with me to explain all,” says Harsh Mehta, a visitor from India. Many menus in restaurants are not in English and you will have to be explained before ordering. And what a day if you happen to have an upset French waiter at your service !

Beyond typical Paris

Arc De Triomphe, a gate like structure, honors those who fought for France during Napoleon era. It was built in 1806. Invalides museum is the burial place for many great French soldiers, including Napoleon. The story behind this short height but man with might is interesting and full of mystery. A place or a historical monument has more to offer to you if you know more about its history and the significance.

So how did Napoleon die?

Napoleon's heroic victories came to a crashing end with defeat at the famous Battle of Waterloo in June 1815. Napoleon spent the last six years of his life under British supervision on the island of Helena. In February 1821, his health began to fail rapidly and soon he died. In his will, he had asked to be buried on the banks of river Seine, but the British governor said he should be buried on St. Helena, in the Valley of the Willows. In 1840, King of France- Louis Philippe obtained permission from the British bring back remains of Napoleon. He was then buried in Paris. An autopsy at time of his death concluded he died of stomach cancer, but in a 1978 book it was said that the emperor's body was found to be remarkably well-preserved when moved in 1840. Scientists have since conjectured that he was poisoned with Arsenic. But again a 2007 study found no evidence of arsenic poisoning in the relevant organs and stated that stomach cancer was the cause of death. In the museum you will have his paintings, his clothes and a chapel called Eglise Saint-Louis des Invalides.

It was the right time

When we visited Paris, the time was appropriate- June and July. The weather was pleasant, the French were now in holiday mood(like every quarter of the year) and hence no week went without any event. We had the great shopping season where sale actually means sale. We witnessed the Music Day where there were live music performances on the streets and complexes across the city. The artists had come from all over the world. And the best was Gay parade- almost naked people voicing their rights. You had groups from the most orthodox countries and also a march by homosexual parents. The day was fun but had a message to give. After a lot of partying and dancing- it was time to call it a day. So we sat to order our drinks.

And came the wines

In Paris, you have to taste wines- pink, white and red. For ladies, you have the sweet wines. A glass of wine starts from 4 Euros at the restaurants. At the shops you will get a full bottle for 4 Euros. To carry back, get a lot of French chocolates, perfumes and wine. None is costly. The problem will be the weight that you have to carry back home.

The city shops close down by 7pm. But the city does not sleep. In summers the sun usually sets around 9. After you have your food and want to relax ,go to Bastilles near Seine, sit at the street restaurant, enjoy the wine and salad with baguette as you see the sight- its still day time. Meanwhile you can personally feed the uninvited guests – the birds… Look forward to a rocking night life. Cheers !or Santé as they call it.

(pictures by  S Preet Kaur)
See this article on international website- http://smarttravelinfo.com/explore-paris-in-a-day/


ESCARGOTS 

Even though the article is over, I still cant stop thinking about escargots. Must tell you how exciting is the story behind escargots.In fact, there is even a day to celebrate it! May 24th is the National Escargot Day. 
 Escargot is a dish of cooked land snails . It is a delicacy since historical times. These are really popular in France. Snail shells have been found in excavations, meaning snails have been eaten since ages. In France the snails are typically purged, killed, removed from their shells, and cooked, with garlic butter, chicken stock or wine. They are then put into the shells with the butter and sauce for serving. They are served with garlic, thyme, parsley and pine nuts. They are extremely high in protein. In France, the species Helix Pomatia is most often eaten. Heliciculture, or snail farming is the process of farming or raising land snails specifically for human consumption. Even in Italy you can find snails. Another kind Helix Aperta,highly prized, is native to France, Italy, and other Mediterranean countries. The French eat snails because it is good for health, since it contains calcium, magnesium and vitamin C. France is the biggest snails consumer in the world. You get canned snails.If you purchase live snails, or use some from your garden, they must be purged of any toxins by feeding them clean food, such as cornmeal, for a number of days. Then they need to be cooked for a couple of hours in stock before they may be used in most recipes .In Greece and Italy they are often consumed in a diversity of dishes and sometimes they are even used in sauces and poured over various types of pasta. Other countries like Spain, Portugal and Germany also consume them, where people create a variety of dishes. In the US there is huge market for Escargots where they are imported from many countries. Many of the recipes found in some restaurants are spin offs from what is cooked in the European countries. Escargot is the common name for snails when they are to be eaten in a dish. Millions of pounds of snails are consumed around the world annually.
Even more interesting is French cuisine. Till , may be sixteenth or 17th centure, French cuisine was heavily influenced by Italian style. In the 17th century, two chefs tried to develop France's own unique style.C Cheese, wine and breads are a major part of the cuisine.The French Revolution was integral to the expansion of French cuisine, because it effectively abolished guilds. Now was the age to experiment.
French consider their food and family meals to be an important part of French culture as can be seen with the lengthy, unhurried meals with family and friends. Sunday, is especially an important day for the family dinner and the traditional French cuisine remains the centre of it's ritual.